I'm currently at the Livingstone Royal Sun Hotel in Zambia. It's like the Westcliff on steroids! How did I get here you may ask... well... *esho eshalaza*
Went to Vic Falls this AM... My Word! There's nothing more beautiful! One can't help but believe in God when you see the grandeur of the place.
I can't stay long, I have to meet up with some friends...
All in all, I'm alive and LOVING it! Tomorrow I'm off to Namibia :)
Thursday, July 22, 2010
Tuesday, July 20, 2010
The Bus Ride to Zim
I never quite got around to reading Spud, well until 3am when we were waiting for the bus to Mahatshula. The trip was pretty cool though. For most of it, we were listening to gospel music (and tall people could see it on the TV screen). I love that about us as Africans, we're very religious people. I was wondering how well received it would be on a Greyhound to put in an hour long Gospel DVD... *thinking about Durban trips where half the bus is filled with Indians*
The two ladies next to me were awesome. The one was fascinated by my Blackberry, she wanted to know how this phone with a computer works, and then she gave me a bit of a lecture about making sure I keep it safe. Between that and sharing her biscuits and blanket with me, I felt like I had my mother with me.
The in-house movie on the bus was AwEsOmE! I think it was called Sgedlemba. About this guy who's got like 7 girlfriends, then he dumps them all when he meets a chick called Lebo, coz he thinks she's the one. When he takes her home, he finds out she's his twin sister! The best part of all is that the entire movie was in Zulu!
Then we got to the border, that's when things got interesting. First was when we arrived and were walking to get our passports stamped, in true tourist fashion I wanted to take a picture of the hustle & bustle of it all. As I was trying to get a shot of an overcrowded bakkie, this guy popped out of nowhere & told me it's illegal to take pictures at the border. I didn't want trouble so I decided to stop. Imagine my shock when he said that we need to go to the office, (remember how I said that my biggest fear as far as this trip is concerned is getting arrested? I could see myself in a prison cell begging for that one phone call...not a pretty site!). But before we got to 'The Office' I explained that I'm just a tourist from SA and I didn't know. He was still not feeling me, I then explained that the camera has a delete function and I'll delete all the pictures I took in front of him, he didn't look impressed but he said 'Ok'. As I was walking away, I said a short prayer... Thank you, God!
Then once we got to the Zim side, we spent a good hour offloading everything on the bus so it could be checked. I mean, every single thing! People had to open bags, offload fridges, bring out TV's & DVD's... hectic! Then you have to declare how much you've got. I get the logic behind it all, but the work and time it takes was waaaay too long.
Then off we went, I fell asleep after this and only woke up when we arrived in Bulawayo. Now we were scheduled to be there at 1am, due to the delay at the border we got there around 2:30 am, and had to get into different smaller buses that would take us home. This is the craziest part, when we get off our bus there's a list of all the places that the different buses are going, and Mahatshula (where I'm going) is not on the list! It's 2:30 am, there's at least 4 hours before sunrise and I'm freaking out. But then I spoke to this one old guy, he explained that the bus would take me there & there was another passenger going to Mahatshula so I'd be okay.
We got onto a bus & they started delivering people, I'd called Zodwa & they'd been expecting me so I wasn't too phased, especially since Mahatshula is in the burbs. The cool thing though is that when someone gets dropped off, the bus doesn't leave until they're sure that someone's opened for you, and with all the luggage that people are carrying, they help you offload. I like Revival Motorways, their service is on point.
We did have a bit of drama though with this guy who was taking his kids home and he hasn't been home in a few years and couldn't remember the directions. One of the ladies (bare in mind that it was now almost 4am) behind me at some point suggested that instead of driving around, why doesn't the bus driver take the rest of us home, cos WE know where we're going. I sat in my seat with my mouth shut... I could just see us going through the same thing when it was time to find MY address. The other passenger who was going to Mahatshula with me, kept telling the guy who was getting lost with his kids: 'Just Visualise, don't you remember any landmarks?' I know that it came from a nice place of tryna help, but at 4am, after a 16 hour bus ride, peanut gallery comments like that didn't seem very welcome to the poor guy who was trying to remember the way home...
This was the first time I actually got a glimpse of Zim (had an isle seat on the bus...). I don't know much about the politics of the place, but it looks quite progressive. There's a lot of new homes being built, affluent people and I think that it's a country trying to make it on it's own. Most businesses aren't familiar(so it's not like Joburg where we're swamped with European & American companies), here it's mainly local names and although that may have it's disadvantages, I admire the 'Yes We Can' attitude this country has. I've always said that there's something to be said for an African country that can refuse the hand of the US & England, from where I stand (in the first floor office of a black owned company in Bulawayo), things aren't at all as tragic as the media makes them out to be.
I'd like to thank Luckson Chimbidzikai for letting me intrude on his work-space and spend the last hour on his laptop, it's been a pleasure catching up.
I'm spending the rest of my afternoon shopping, then tomorrow it's off to Vic Falls!!!
The two ladies next to me were awesome. The one was fascinated by my Blackberry, she wanted to know how this phone with a computer works, and then she gave me a bit of a lecture about making sure I keep it safe. Between that and sharing her biscuits and blanket with me, I felt like I had my mother with me.
The in-house movie on the bus was AwEsOmE! I think it was called Sgedlemba. About this guy who's got like 7 girlfriends, then he dumps them all when he meets a chick called Lebo, coz he thinks she's the one. When he takes her home, he finds out she's his twin sister! The best part of all is that the entire movie was in Zulu!
Then we got to the border, that's when things got interesting. First was when we arrived and were walking to get our passports stamped, in true tourist fashion I wanted to take a picture of the hustle & bustle of it all. As I was trying to get a shot of an overcrowded bakkie, this guy popped out of nowhere & told me it's illegal to take pictures at the border. I didn't want trouble so I decided to stop. Imagine my shock when he said that we need to go to the office, (remember how I said that my biggest fear as far as this trip is concerned is getting arrested? I could see myself in a prison cell begging for that one phone call...not a pretty site!). But before we got to 'The Office' I explained that I'm just a tourist from SA and I didn't know. He was still not feeling me, I then explained that the camera has a delete function and I'll delete all the pictures I took in front of him, he didn't look impressed but he said 'Ok'. As I was walking away, I said a short prayer... Thank you, God!
Then once we got to the Zim side, we spent a good hour offloading everything on the bus so it could be checked. I mean, every single thing! People had to open bags, offload fridges, bring out TV's & DVD's... hectic! Then you have to declare how much you've got. I get the logic behind it all, but the work and time it takes was waaaay too long.
Then off we went, I fell asleep after this and only woke up when we arrived in Bulawayo. Now we were scheduled to be there at 1am, due to the delay at the border we got there around 2:30 am, and had to get into different smaller buses that would take us home. This is the craziest part, when we get off our bus there's a list of all the places that the different buses are going, and Mahatshula (where I'm going) is not on the list! It's 2:30 am, there's at least 4 hours before sunrise and I'm freaking out. But then I spoke to this one old guy, he explained that the bus would take me there & there was another passenger going to Mahatshula so I'd be okay.
We got onto a bus & they started delivering people, I'd called Zodwa & they'd been expecting me so I wasn't too phased, especially since Mahatshula is in the burbs. The cool thing though is that when someone gets dropped off, the bus doesn't leave until they're sure that someone's opened for you, and with all the luggage that people are carrying, they help you offload. I like Revival Motorways, their service is on point.
We did have a bit of drama though with this guy who was taking his kids home and he hasn't been home in a few years and couldn't remember the directions. One of the ladies (bare in mind that it was now almost 4am) behind me at some point suggested that instead of driving around, why doesn't the bus driver take the rest of us home, cos WE know where we're going. I sat in my seat with my mouth shut... I could just see us going through the same thing when it was time to find MY address. The other passenger who was going to Mahatshula with me, kept telling the guy who was getting lost with his kids: 'Just Visualise, don't you remember any landmarks?' I know that it came from a nice place of tryna help, but at 4am, after a 16 hour bus ride, peanut gallery comments like that didn't seem very welcome to the poor guy who was trying to remember the way home...
This was the first time I actually got a glimpse of Zim (had an isle seat on the bus...). I don't know much about the politics of the place, but it looks quite progressive. There's a lot of new homes being built, affluent people and I think that it's a country trying to make it on it's own. Most businesses aren't familiar(so it's not like Joburg where we're swamped with European & American companies), here it's mainly local names and although that may have it's disadvantages, I admire the 'Yes We Can' attitude this country has. I've always said that there's something to be said for an African country that can refuse the hand of the US & England, from where I stand (in the first floor office of a black owned company in Bulawayo), things aren't at all as tragic as the media makes them out to be.
I'd like to thank Luckson Chimbidzikai for letting me intrude on his work-space and spend the last hour on his laptop, it's been a pleasure catching up.
I'm spending the rest of my afternoon shopping, then tomorrow it's off to Vic Falls!!!
Monday, July 19, 2010
Day 1 - Leaving Jo'burg for Bulawayo
I couldn't sleep last night. I felt like a 5 year old on Christmas eve, so excited! I packed evrything last night into my 1 bag, compared to most trips, this is a huge achievement.
With the house locked & the convertible parked safely in its spot, I headed out of my complex on foot. As luck would have it, as I was walking out I met this guy, his name is Louis & he walked with me to catch a taxi & even helped with carrying the HeAvY bag! As we were talking, I discovered he's actually from Bulawayo. I'm off to a great start! Apparently Mahatshula is a suburb, that's where I'm spending the nighrt tonight. That was a bit dissapointing to hear, I was kinda hoping for something more out of my comfort-zone. Louis showed me how to hail a taxi, 4 fingers for Fourways mall. That's where taxis to town are. But as luvk would have it, our taxi was practically empty & the driver, this very chatty guy called Msizi, was heading to town. He dropped me off at the busstop! I'd been dreading the long walk & he really helped me out! But just as I was getting off the taxi, Msizi asked for my number. I had to decline, explained that I'm greatful, but not available. I think he took it well.
I got out of Msizi's taxi, I was suddenly surrounded by 3 guys, all offering me a hand with the luggage. With a stern expression, I said 'Ke grand', threw the heavy bag over my shoulder & wobbled over to the busses. As I arrived, I was once again bombarded by a couple of guys asking where I'm going, recommending busses & offering to help me carry. I was instructed to only board an orange bus (named Casterns I think) but when I got there, there was no orange bus, just a green & yellow bus with the words "Revival Motorways" on the side. I went & bought my ticket & boarded. Orange bus eventually arrived, but I was already comfortable in my seat, and had made friends with the two old ladies next to me!
First myth that didn't turn out to be true, there are no goats on board, the only chickens here are in lunch-tins, and there's a TV! They're only playng music DVD's at the moment, maybe the movie's gonna start later. The bus itself is packed! The only thing worrying me is how warmly everyone's dressed! I'm dressed for Africa in skinny jeans and an oversized shirt, but I did bring a small blanket for when it gets nippy.
I really hope this Blackberry's battery holds out until we reach the border. The people on my left & right are taking naps, I've got a copy of Spud on my lap, but I haven't even opened it. One thing I can say for these music DVD's, I'm going to know eveey Zimbabwean dance move by the time we hit Bulawayo!
We're now on our way, no turning back now!
With the house locked & the convertible parked safely in its spot, I headed out of my complex on foot. As luck would have it, as I was walking out I met this guy, his name is Louis & he walked with me to catch a taxi & even helped with carrying the HeAvY bag! As we were talking, I discovered he's actually from Bulawayo. I'm off to a great start! Apparently Mahatshula is a suburb, that's where I'm spending the nighrt tonight. That was a bit dissapointing to hear, I was kinda hoping for something more out of my comfort-zone. Louis showed me how to hail a taxi, 4 fingers for Fourways mall. That's where taxis to town are. But as luvk would have it, our taxi was practically empty & the driver, this very chatty guy called Msizi, was heading to town. He dropped me off at the busstop! I'd been dreading the long walk & he really helped me out! But just as I was getting off the taxi, Msizi asked for my number. I had to decline, explained that I'm greatful, but not available. I think he took it well.
I got out of Msizi's taxi, I was suddenly surrounded by 3 guys, all offering me a hand with the luggage. With a stern expression, I said 'Ke grand', threw the heavy bag over my shoulder & wobbled over to the busses. As I arrived, I was once again bombarded by a couple of guys asking where I'm going, recommending busses & offering to help me carry. I was instructed to only board an orange bus (named Casterns I think) but when I got there, there was no orange bus, just a green & yellow bus with the words "Revival Motorways" on the side. I went & bought my ticket & boarded. Orange bus eventually arrived, but I was already comfortable in my seat, and had made friends with the two old ladies next to me!
First myth that didn't turn out to be true, there are no goats on board, the only chickens here are in lunch-tins, and there's a TV! They're only playng music DVD's at the moment, maybe the movie's gonna start later. The bus itself is packed! The only thing worrying me is how warmly everyone's dressed! I'm dressed for Africa in skinny jeans and an oversized shirt, but I did bring a small blanket for when it gets nippy.
I really hope this Blackberry's battery holds out until we reach the border. The people on my left & right are taking naps, I've got a copy of Spud on my lap, but I haven't even opened it. One thing I can say for these music DVD's, I'm going to know eveey Zimbabwean dance move by the time we hit Bulawayo!
We're now on our way, no turning back now!
Sunday, July 18, 2010
Some Random Facts About Me
I'm 1/4 Mozambiquan, but unfortunately cannot speak a word of Tsonga or Portugese. Once during a visit to Maputo, I spent almost 10 minutes trying to ask for salt!
I've never left Africa. I've been to a couple of African countries & every province in SA but I've unfortunately never left the continent.
My mom lives in the UK, and she's not too crazy about this idea.
I've dated two Ethiopians in my life. There's something about that curly hair & Ahmaric accent...
The last time I was in a taxi (or any form of public transport) was in 2008 & before that day, it'd been since 2006.
I once witnessed someone smuggling someone into the country, they paid the official at the border R20. (I swear, couldn't believe it either!)
One of the toughest questions for me to figure out an answer to, is: "Whilst Europeans were building ships, building large cities, making scientific discoveries... what were Africans doing?"
The hardest part of preparing for this trip was trying to figure out how to fit all my clothes, shoes, books, accessories into one bag. I had to make some tough calls, especially when it came to which two pairs of shoes can go with over 9 different outfits. Including a cocktail dress I packed just in case!
If I could have dinner with one president in my lifetime, it would be Thabo Mbeki. I think he's one of the best things to have happened to this country (but I am Zulu so ofcourse I voted for Msholozi)
My biggest fear as far as this trip is concerned is getting arrested/into an accident. Anything that would leave me at the mercy of the authorities in a foreign country where I may not even speak the language.
I believe that African values hold the key to solving the worlds problems.
If there are two people I wish I could've taken this trip with it's firstly my cousin Xoli, she's one of the calmest people I know, so nothing phases her. The second one is my man, he's great with people & he makes me laugh. That 12 hour bus ride to Bulawayo would've been a breeze!
My least favourite thing about being African, is... Actually, I'll keep this one to myself. (",)
The one thing I'm gonna miss the most this week, is Big Brother All Stars!
I've never left Africa. I've been to a couple of African countries & every province in SA but I've unfortunately never left the continent.
My mom lives in the UK, and she's not too crazy about this idea.
I've dated two Ethiopians in my life. There's something about that curly hair & Ahmaric accent...
The last time I was in a taxi (or any form of public transport) was in 2008 & before that day, it'd been since 2006.
I once witnessed someone smuggling someone into the country, they paid the official at the border R20. (I swear, couldn't believe it either!)
One of the toughest questions for me to figure out an answer to, is: "Whilst Europeans were building ships, building large cities, making scientific discoveries... what were Africans doing?"
The hardest part of preparing for this trip was trying to figure out how to fit all my clothes, shoes, books, accessories into one bag. I had to make some tough calls, especially when it came to which two pairs of shoes can go with over 9 different outfits. Including a cocktail dress I packed just in case!
If I could have dinner with one president in my lifetime, it would be Thabo Mbeki. I think he's one of the best things to have happened to this country (but I am Zulu so ofcourse I voted for Msholozi)
My biggest fear as far as this trip is concerned is getting arrested/into an accident. Anything that would leave me at the mercy of the authorities in a foreign country where I may not even speak the language.
I believe that African values hold the key to solving the worlds problems.
If there are two people I wish I could've taken this trip with it's firstly my cousin Xoli, she's one of the calmest people I know, so nothing phases her. The second one is my man, he's great with people & he makes me laugh. That 12 hour bus ride to Bulawayo would've been a breeze!
My least favourite thing about being African, is... Actually, I'll keep this one to myself. (",)
The one thing I'm gonna miss the most this week, is Big Brother All Stars!
Itinerary
Monday- Depart from Jo'burg at 12midday
Arrive at Zodwa's 36 Mahatshu in Bulawayo at Midnight
Tuesday-Spend the day in Bulawayo (aka Skies)
Wednesday -Depart for Vic Falls around 8am
Arrive in Vic Falls, go see Buhle
Visit Elephant Hills
Visit Chinotimba (if there's time)
Cross the border into Zambia
Thursday- Hike to Boiling Point
Explore Livingstone with Chanda
Friday - Depart for Namibia
Spend part of the day in Namibia
Depart for Francis Town (Botswana)
Saturday - Make my way to Gaborone
Get transport back to Jo'burg
(Details for Namibia to be finalised once I get to Zambia, if I'n lucky Buhle might organise for me to bungee jump from Vic falls :)
Arrive at Zodwa's 36 Mahatshu in Bulawayo at Midnight
Tuesday-Spend the day in Bulawayo (aka Skies)
Wednesday -Depart for Vic Falls around 8am
Arrive in Vic Falls, go see Buhle
Visit Elephant Hills
Visit Chinotimba (if there's time)
Cross the border into Zambia
Thursday- Hike to Boiling Point
Explore Livingstone with Chanda
Friday - Depart for Namibia
Spend part of the day in Namibia
Depart for Francis Town (Botswana)
Saturday - Make my way to Gaborone
Get transport back to Jo'burg
(Details for Namibia to be finalised once I get to Zambia, if I'n lucky Buhle might organise for me to bungee jump from Vic falls :)
Saturday, July 17, 2010
What Friends & Family Think of this Crazy Idea...
You can call the book, which you will write, travels through africa: my heart, my soul, my energy. If this is how you feel then don't waste time, get a move on before regret. The route to enlightenment was never meant to be rational. Peace and love.
Janine S.
Eish, u putting me in a difficult position i have never holidayed in other african states. U know what, u are young, smart + fun and i dont see why not. Enjoy. All my love.
Siza
I feel you and good luck. My craziest idea is of mounting 4+ cameras in a 360Degrees angle everyday for a month on a car, drive around and document the behaviour of fellow drivers.
Pule Motloung
I'm SO jealous! Go for it my friend and have a blast! Do keep in touch and acknowledge me at the premier :)
Smoke
Its not a bad idea, but it doesn't help to preach such anti-crime to a benign converted congregation, such message should be taken to the hot spots where attcks are likely to occur
Jake
Broaden ure horizons and go for it !!!
Brandon
God is with you don't be nervous. I have faith that you will be great now you must believe the same. You are deep,insightful, stable person who others would love to meet. Virtual hug for following your dream. xxx
Janine S.
We regret mostly th things we ddnt do, so as crazy as it is "DO IT".Jst make sure ur vaccines are in order.Fortune favours th brave. So Godspeed, Bon Voyage, ndlelanhle.
@d ryt age as a rite of passage I 1 2 take Jnr bckpackin arnd SADEC on bike/bicycle. I thnk it'll make a betta African of him thn I am
Lucky (my brother)
Smashing idea! Take good recording equipment, and test the theory at least once in traditional wear.
Dale
Hi there dearest, u r truly humanitarian,may the most high bles u continually n ceaselessly.
Masoja Msiza
DO IT!!! You gonna have a blast!!!
Lebo Babe
Just make sure you're a Jo'burger about it, ungabhayizi!
O.B
I don't think you have lost your mind and because we as south africans tend to be the USA of Africa it would be interesting to look outside ourselves. All I will say is be conscious of your safety and the consultant in me asks "what does the end look like" Are you looking for fulfilment, just curious, inspiration for a book or travel with purpose? Either way an experience leaves one wiser so go for it!
Lindani Nyandu
On the safety point may I know who are the friends you'l b staing with in Zambia? Is this the best way of spending your time & money?
Ma
Janine S.
Eish, u putting me in a difficult position i have never holidayed in other african states. U know what, u are young, smart + fun and i dont see why not. Enjoy. All my love.
Siza
I feel you and good luck. My craziest idea is of mounting 4+ cameras in a 360Degrees angle everyday for a month on a car, drive around and document the behaviour of fellow drivers.
Pule Motloung
I'm SO jealous! Go for it my friend and have a blast! Do keep in touch and acknowledge me at the premier :)
Smoke
Its not a bad idea, but it doesn't help to preach such anti-crime to a benign converted congregation, such message should be taken to the hot spots where attcks are likely to occur
Jake
Broaden ure horizons and go for it !!!
Brandon
God is with you don't be nervous. I have faith that you will be great now you must believe the same. You are deep,insightful, stable person who others would love to meet. Virtual hug for following your dream. xxx
Janine S.
We regret mostly th things we ddnt do, so as crazy as it is "DO IT".Jst make sure ur vaccines are in order.Fortune favours th brave. So Godspeed, Bon Voyage, ndlelanhle.
@d ryt age as a rite of passage I 1 2 take Jnr bckpackin arnd SADEC on bike/bicycle. I thnk it'll make a betta African of him thn I am
Lucky (my brother)
Smashing idea! Take good recording equipment, and test the theory at least once in traditional wear.
Dale
Hi there dearest, u r truly humanitarian,may the most high bles u continually n ceaselessly.
Masoja Msiza
DO IT!!! You gonna have a blast!!!
Lebo Babe
Just make sure you're a Jo'burger about it, ungabhayizi!
O.B
I don't think you have lost your mind and because we as south africans tend to be the USA of Africa it would be interesting to look outside ourselves. All I will say is be conscious of your safety and the consultant in me asks "what does the end look like" Are you looking for fulfilment, just curious, inspiration for a book or travel with purpose? Either way an experience leaves one wiser so go for it!
Lindani Nyandu
On the safety point may I know who are the friends you'l b staing with in Zambia? Is this the best way of spending your time & money?
Ma
The Plan
In a nutshell, I'm planning to visit 4 African countries in the next 7 days. I'm only taking public transport, I will be staying in the homes of the friends I'm visiting in each country and I will return next Sunday & share my experience.
The aim is to dispel the myth that our neighbours are dirty, dangerous & we're not a part of their Africa. I want to meet other Africans, hear their views on South Africa and learn from them.
I want to approach this trip with an open mind, I want to honestly share my own views, prejudices and fears. But I want to come back with a clearer view of who my neighbours are, what they love most about being African and how (even in the smallest way) South Africans could be more empathetic towards their neighbours. We've just hosted the world for the World Cup & many Europeans & Americans commented on our great kindness & Ubuntu, but how do our own neighbours rate us? I don't have all the answers & I guess that's what this trip is about.
I plan to take plenty of pictures & bring back a piece of the experience with me.
The aim is to dispel the myth that our neighbours are dirty, dangerous & we're not a part of their Africa. I want to meet other Africans, hear their views on South Africa and learn from them.
I want to approach this trip with an open mind, I want to honestly share my own views, prejudices and fears. But I want to come back with a clearer view of who my neighbours are, what they love most about being African and how (even in the smallest way) South Africans could be more empathetic towards their neighbours. We've just hosted the world for the World Cup & many Europeans & Americans commented on our great kindness & Ubuntu, but how do our own neighbours rate us? I don't have all the answers & I guess that's what this trip is about.
I plan to take plenty of pictures & bring back a piece of the experience with me.
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